East Africa wants to curb used-clothing imports, but the balance is hard to find
East African Community (EAC) governments are renewing their push to curb imports of used clothing in order to grow domestic textile manufacturing. But Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania are struggling to balance the cost of living for millions of consumers with marketplace employment.
In an analysis filed from Nairobi by BBC Africa correspondent Anne Soy, EAC countries imported about 760,000 tonnes of mitumba (second-hand clothing) in 2024. Florence Mwangi, head of Kenya's Exporters Council, recommended raising the import tariff to 50% to grow local textiles, while acknowledging that sector-association lobbying is very strong.
Finance ministries note that the $1.4 billion-a-year mitumba trade supports about 2.5 million jobs directly or indirectly; Joseph Otieno, a market vendors' representative, said a sudden ban would 'cause salary and income losses'. Senior USAID adviser Linda Thomas-Greenfield said the cost to low-income households of alternative clothing also has to be considered.
EAC Secretary-General Veronica Nduva confirmed that a proposal for 'phased restrictions' will be on the table at the 28 May summit in Arusha. Bloomberg Intelligence economist Christopher Mahon said regional textile value-added could rise by 60% by 2030, but added that the goal depends on at least $1.8 billion of new factory investment.
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